Stay On Top Of Moisture And Help Avoid Mold Problems

Found in abundance in the Arctic, the Antarctic and everywhere in between, mold and mold spores are virtually impossible to avoid. Mold especially flourishes in warm, humid climates like ours in Northeast Florida.

Though air cleaners and UV lights can reduce the number of mold spores in your home, they can never be eliminated completely. Keeping your home dry can go a long way toward inhibiting interior mold growth.
Mold can grow on nearly any surface as long as water is present. Aside from producing stains and damaging wood, drywall, carpet and other furnishings, mold spores can cause detrimental health effects ranging from mild to life-threatening.

Cleanup and removal of mold can be difficult and expensive. It is far easier to avoid mold problems in the first place. Some tips for keeping your home dry and mold-free:


•Clean up spills or leaks immediately. Mold growth can begin within 24 hours.

•Ensure good ventilation, especially in bathrooms, attics and basements.

•Use fans or windows to improve ventilation while cooking or showering.

•Do not overwater houseplants or leave damp clothing or other materials sitting around.

•Cover pipes and other surfaces prone to condensation with waterproof material.

•Make sure appliance drip pans and drain routes are clean and functioning.

•Use air conditioning and/or a dehumidifier to keep your home’s humidity below 55 percent.

Air conditioners remove some water from the air as it is treated, but in the high-humidity climate of Northeast Florida a dehumidifier will be considerably more effective at reducing moisture. Dehumidifiers are available in small, portable units to address trouble spots. But a whole-house dehumidifier will optimize the moisture level throughout your entire home.

When it comes to mold, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. At Action Heating and Air Conditioning we are always happy to answer any questions you may have, and our professionals are standing by ready to help you take control of your home’s humidity levels. Contact us if we can help.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

Have You Been Practicing Good Heat Pump Maintenance?

If you have a heat pump, you know that it’s a highly efficient way to cool and heat your home. But even the most efficient cooling and heating system isn’t efficient if it’s not properly maintained. Work with your HVAC technician to keep your system in tip-top shape. Some routine heat pump maintenance tasks you can do yourself. Other tasks are best left to your experienced technician.

What you can do

•Change the filter regularly. A dirty filter can severely restrict your system’s efficiency and force your heat pump to work harder than it should. Ask your technician how often you should change the filter, or consult your owner’s manual. When you’re shopping for a filter, look for one in the mid-MERV range. A filter with a mid-range minimum efficiency reporting value should remove sufficient particulate matter to keep your unit running efficiently.
•Whenever the outdoor coils look dirty, clean them. Also clean the fan occasionally, making sure you turn off the power first.
•Check the condensate pan, drain and trap, and clean as needed.
•Clear away vegetation or other obstructions that are near your outdoor unit. This will keep airflow optimal.
•Clean the registers in your home. Straighten any bent fans.
•Leave your thermostat setting alone. If you avoid the temptation to frequently change the setting you will allow your unit to operate most efficiently.

What your technician should do:

Have your heat pump professionally inspected and serviced at least once a year. Your technician should:

•Thoroughly inspect the components, checking for obstructions and dirt.
•Find and seal any leakage.
•Check for refrigerant leaks and correct the charge if necessary.
•Measure airflow.
•Lubricate the motor.
•Tighten and clean the terminals.
•Check the controls and the thermostat.

At Action Heating and Air Conditioning, we understand the benefits of heat pump maintenance. We can help you maintain your system, and if you’re shopping for a new unit, we can help you with that, as well. We serve homeowners in Northeast Florida. Contact us and let us help you with all of your HVAC system needs.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

COMMON ABBREVATIONS OF AIR CONDITIONING

Common abbrevations
Below common abbreviations related to heat pumping technology are listed. The list is not complete and it will continuously be updated.

AHU An air handling unit, or air handler
COP Coefficient Of Performance
CFC Chlorofluorocarbon
DHW Domestic Heat Water
DX Direct Expansion
EER Energy Efficiency Ratio
EES Earth Energy System
GCHP Ground Coupled Heat Pump
GHP Geothermal Heat Pump
GSHP Ground Source Heat Pump
GWHP Ground Water Heat Pump
GWP Global Warming Potential
HCFC Hydrochlorofluorocarbon
HDH Cumulative Heating Degree Hours
HFC Hydrofluorocarbon
HSPF Heating Seasonal Performance Factor
HVAC Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning
ODP Ozone Depletion Potential
SEER Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio
SPF Seasonal Performance Factor

GEOTHERMAL

Geothermal Heat Pumps
Geothermal heat pumps (sometimes referred to as GeoExchange, earth-coupled, ground-source, or water-source heat pumps) have been in use since the late 1940s. Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use the constant temperature of the earth as the exchange medium instead of the outside air temperature. This allows the system to reach fairly high efficiencies (300%-600%) on the coldest of winter nights, compared to 175%-250% for air-source heat pumps on cool days.
While many parts of the country experience seasonal temperature extremes—from scorching heat in the summer to sub-zero cold in the winter—a few feet below the earth's surface the ground remains at a relatively constant temperature. Depending on latitude, ground temperatures range from 45°F (7°C) to 75°F (21°C). Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. The GHP takes advantage of this by exchanging heat with the earth through a ground heat exchanger.
As with any heat pump, geothermal and water-source heat pumps are able to heat, cool, and, if so equipped, supply the house with hot water. Some models of geothermal systems are available with two-speed compressors and variable fans for more comfort and energy savings. Relative to air-source heat pumps, they are quieter, last longer, need little maintenance, and do not depend on the temperature of the outside air.
A dual-source heat pump combines an air-source heat pump with a geothermal heat pump. These appliances combine the best of both systems. Dual-source heat pumps have higher efficiency ratings than air-source units, but are not as efficient as geothermal units. The main advantage of dual-source systems is that they cost much less to install than a single geothermal unit, and work almost as well.
Even though the installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of an air-source system of the same heating and cooling capacity, the additional costs are returned to you in energy savings in 5–10 years. System life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop. There are approximately 50,000 geothermal heat pumps installed in the United States each year.
Benefits of Geothermal Heat Pump Systems
The biggest benefit of GHPs is that they use 25%–50% less electricity than conventional heating or cooling systems. This translates into a GHP using one unit of electricity to move three units of heat from the earth. According to the EPA, geothermal heat pumps can reduce energy consumption—and corresponding emissions—up to 44% compared to air-source heat pumps and up to 72% compared to electric resistance heating with standard air-conditioning equipment. GHPs also improve humidity control by maintaining about 50% relative indoor humidity, making GHPs very effective in humid areas.
Geothermal heat pump systems allow for design flexibility and can be installed in both new and retrofit situations. Because the hardware requires less space than that needed by conventional HVAC systems, the equipment rooms can be greatly scaled down in size, freeing space for productive use. GHP systems also provide excellent "zone" space conditioning, allowing different parts of your home to be heated or cooled to different temperatures.
Because GHP systems have relatively few moving parts, and because those parts are sheltered inside a building, they are durable and highly reliable. The underground piping often carries warranties of 25–50 years, and the heat pumps often last 20 years or more. Since they usually have no outdoor compressors, GHPs are not susceptible to vandalism. On the other hand, the components in the living space are easily accessible, which increases the convenience factor and helps ensure that the upkeep is done on a timely basis.
Because they have no outside condensing units like air conditioners, there's no concern about noise outside the home. A two-speed GHP system is so quiet inside a house that users do not know it is operating: there are no tell-tale blasts of cold or hot air.

MINI DUCTLESS SYSTEMS

WE SELL MITSUBISHI DUCTLESS, MINI-SPLIT SYSTEMS








Ductless, mini-split-system heat pumps (mini splits) make good retrofit add-ons to houses with "non-ducted" heating systems, such as hydronic (hot water heat), radiant panels, and space heaters (wood, kerosene, propane). They can also be a good choice for room additions, where extending or installing distribution ductwork is not feasible.

Like standard air-source heat pumps, mini splits have two main components: an outdoor compressor/condenser, and an indoor air-handling unit. A conduit, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain, links the outdoor and indoor units.

The main advantages of mini splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning or heating and cooling individual rooms. Many models can have as many as four indoor air handling units (for four zones or rooms) connected to one outdoor unit. The number depends on how much heating or cooling is required for the building or each zone (which in turn is affected by how well the building is insulated). Since each of the zones will have its own thermostat, you only need to condition that place when someone is there. This will save energy and money.

Ductless mini-split systems are also often easier to install than other types of space conditioning systems. For example, the hook-up between the outdoor and indoor units generally requires only a three-inch hole through a wall for the conduit. Also, most manufacturers of this type of system can provide a variety of lengths of connecting conduits. If necessary, you can locate the outdoor unit as far away as 50 feet from the indoor evaporator. This makes it possible to cool rooms on the front side of a building house with the compressor in a more advantageous or inconspicuous place on the outside of the building.

Since mini splits have no ducts, they avoid the energy losses associated with ductwork of central forced air systems. Duct losses can account for more than 30% of energy consumption for space conditioning, especially if the ducts are in an unconditioned space such as an attic.

In comparison to other add-on systems, mini splits offer more flexibility in interior design options. The indoor air handlers can be suspended from a ceiling, mounted flush into a drop ceiling, or hung on a wall. Floor-standing models are also available. Most indoor units have profiles of about seven inches deep and usually come with sleek, high tech-looking jackets. Many also offer a remote control to make it easier to turn the system on and off when it's positioned high on a wall or suspended from a ceiling.
Split-systems can also help to keep your home safer since there is only a small hole in the wall. Through-the-wall and window mounted room air-conditioners can provide an easy entrance for intruders.

Give us a call and talk to our expert on the Mitsubishi systems.

Ease the Cost Of Summer Vacation By Saving Energy Dollars While You’re Away

Taking a summer vacation is a good way to relax and leave behind the hassles of everyday life, but it can be an expensive proposition, as well. Your travel expenses, vacation rentals and dinners at the restaurant can add up. One way to ease the cost of summer vacation is to make sure your home isn’t wasting energy while you’re gone. Tend to the following before you take off.

• Air conditioner: Leave your air conditioner set at 80 to 82 degrees. This way it will run less often but still provide some dehumidification. If you have a programmable thermostat, set it to kick on shortly before you return home. But if your pets are staying behind — with someone checking on them regularly — turn up your thermostat only a few degrees.

• Lights: Turning off the lights before you leave for vacation is a no-brainer, but some homeowners like to leave the lights on for security purposes. If you prefer to leave some lights on, select just a few and hook them up to a timer or motion sensor. That way, the lights will come on only when you need them to, rather than blazing away 24/7.

• Freezer and refrigerator: Get rid of highly perishable items such as meat and dairy products before you leave, and put your refrigerator and freezer at the highest temperature setting while you’re gone. If you plan to be out of the house for a month or more, completely empty your fridge and unplug it. Leave the door propped open so you don’t come home to mold and mildew.

• Water heater: Shut your water heater off at the fuse box or circuit breaker panel before you leave to avoid heating water unnecessarily while you’re away.

• Swimming pool: Set your pool pump so that it runs just a few hours each day instead of around the clock.

• Household electronics: Devices like stereos, computers and televisions draw power even when they’re turned off, so eliminate this needless expense by unplugging them before you leave.

To learn more about energy savings during summer vacation, contact Action Heating and Air Conditioning. We’ve been serving St.Johns ,Clay and all of Northeast Florida since 1982.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

SYSTEM OPERATION

While heat pumps and air conditioners require the use of some different components in your heating and cooling system, they operate on the same basic principles.
Heat pumps and central air conditioners are "split systems," which means that there is an outdoor unit (condenser) and an indoor unit (coil). The job of the heat pump or air conditioner is to transport heat from one "station" to the other. The "vehicle" your system uses to carry the heat is called refrigerant.

In air conditioning operation, the compressor in your outdoor unit will change the gaseous refrigerant into a high temperature, high pressure gas. As that gas flows through the outdoor coil it will lose heat and condense into a high temperature, high pressure liquid. The liquid refrigerant travels through copper tubing into the evaporator coil located in your fan coil unit or attached to your furnace. The liquid refrigerant is then allowed to expand.

This sudden expansion turns the refrigerant into a low temperature, low pressure gas. The gas then absorbs heat from the air circulating in the duct work, leaving it full of cooler air to be distributed throughout your house. Meanwhile, the low temperature, low pressure refrigerant gas returns to the compressor to begin the cycle all over again.

While it’s keeping you cool, your air conditioner or heat pump also works as an effective dehumidifier. As warm air passes over the indoor evaporator coil, it can no longer hold as much moisture as it carried at its higher temperatures. The extra moisture condenses on the outside of the coils and is carried away through a drain. The process is similar to what happens when moisture condenses on the outside of a glass of ice water on a hot, humid day.

A heat pump basically reverses that process in cold weather. It takes heat out of the outside air (or the ground, if you have a ground-source heat pump) and moves it inside, where it is transferred from the evaporator coil to the air circulating through your home.

Where does a heat pump get the heat to warm your home when it’s cold outside? Well, to a heat pump, cold is a relative term. Even though 35 F air may feel cold to humans, it actually contains a great deal of heat. The temperature at which air no longer has any heat is well below -200 F. A heat pump’s heat exchanger can squeeze heat out of cold air, then transfer that heat into your home with the help of a fan coil or a furnace, which circulates the warm air through your ducts.

Heat pumps are often installed with back-up electric resistance heat or a furnace to handle heating requirements when more heat is needed than the heat pump can efficiently extract from the air.

Give us a call at (904) 819-0234 for more information.

GOOD SENSE

"Along with prohibiting the production of ozone-depleting refrigerants, the Clean Air Act also mandates the use of common sense in handling refrigerants. By containing and using refrigerants responsibly -- that is, by recovering, recycling, and reclaiming, and by reducing leaks -- their ozone depletion and global warming consequences are minimized. The Clean Air Act outlines specific refrigerant containment and management practices for HVAC manufacturers, distributors, dealers and technicians. Properly installed home comfort systems rarely develop refrigerant leaks, and with proper servicing, a system using R-22, R-410A or another refrigerant will minimize its impact on the environment. While EPA does not mandate repairing or replacing small systems because of leaks, system leaks can not only harm the environment, but also result in increased maintenance costs. One important thing a homeowner can do for the environment, regardless of the refrigerant used, is to select a reputable dealer that employs service technicians who are EPA-certified to handle refrigerants. Technicians often call this certification"Section 608 certification," referring to the part of the Clean Air Act that requires minimizing releases of ozone-depleting chemicals from HVAC equipment." — As quoted from the EPA. Call us at Action Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc., we have EPA certified technicians.

Home Air Conditioner Maintenance Is A Must-Have Service: What Your Contractor Should Do

Keeping your air conditioner running reliably and efficiently requires regular maintenance and attention. Without expert maintenance, your cooling system is more likely to break down when the stresses of summer push it beyond its ability to function



Regular preventive maintenance keeps your system running as it should and allows an expert to find and fix small problems before they get worse.

Preventive inspection and maintenance lets a trained HVAC professional evaluate the condition of your system and make changes, adjustments and repairs that will sustain the unit’s performance. If any parts of your air conditioner are wearing out sooner than they should, your technician can locate the source of the wear and stop it. Preventive maintenance also pays off financially: Regular tune-ups can keep an air conditioner operating at up to 95 percent efficiency, even after several seasons.


Your technician will inspect your system and complete maintenance tasks. Those tasks may include::


•Checking and filling the refrigerant and checking for leaks
•Inspecting, cleaning and tightening electrical connections
•Inspecting and sealing ducts to prevent air and energy leaks
•Lubricating moving parts, including fans and motors
•Inspecting belts for tightness and condition
•Inspecting drain pans and condensate drains
•Checking and cleaning condenser and evaporator coils
•Checking and calibrating the thermostat
•Testing overall system operation and making necessary adjustments
You can do some maintenance tasks yourself, such as:

•Cleaning the outdoor compressor and removing accumulated grass, leaves, sticks and other material from vents
•Trimming trees, grass, bushes and other vegetation away from the unit to provide clearance for airflow
•Cleaning indoor vents and registers and clearing any blockages
•Changing filters (Check monthly, and change if needed; otherwise, change every three months.)

By doing some of the minor tasks yourself, you’ll free up your technician’s time to focus on technical issues and repairs.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided top-notch air conditioning sales, maintenance and repair to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine and Northeast Florida. Contact us for more information on maintenance or to schedule a professional air conditioner tune-up that will keep your system working reliably throughout the summer.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

LIQUID BLEACH & DRAIN LINES

Many homeowners think it is a good idea to pour liquid bleach down their air conditioning drain line. If your drain line is clogged, it is not recommended that your pour bleach in the drain line. Bleach will not clear the clog in the line; but the bleach could back up in the clogged drain and damage carpet, flooring, and other items in close proximity to the clogged drain line. Make sure you have your drain line cleared before you pour liquid bleach in it.

OPEN WINDOWS & DOORS

Some people like the fresh air to blow through their homes. But once you turn your air conditioning system on for the season, it is best not to open the doors and windows. The reason being is that the humidity gets into your carpets, furniture, curtains, and anything that is made of fabric. Once this humidity is trapped and you turn on your air conditioning system, it can take up to 48 hours to get that humidity back out of the fabrics, thus raising your electric bill. Keep your thermostat set at a constant confortable temperature. This will save you alot more money on your electric bill, then opening doors and windows.