MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR

All of us at Action Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc. would like to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

"DIRTY SOCK SYNDROME"

What is “Dirty Sock Syndrome?”

Do you get a mildew-type odor when your HVAC system first starts up? If so, this article may explain some of the reasons for that odor.

From information gathered over many years, most professionals agree “Dirty Sock Syndrome” is caused by a bacteria that collects and grows on the indoor coils of heat pumps and air conditioners.

Complaints normally surface when heat pumps go into defrost or when systems are run in heating for a brief time then switched back into cooling. The bacteria or odor collects and grows on the coil during this heating time and is released all at once when the indoor coil gets cool and damp. Heat pump owners notice the odor when the system goes into defrost, usually when the outdoor temperature dips below 40 degrees. Heat pumps and air conditioners experience the problem when the air conditioner is turned back on after the heating has been used. Our climate can require heating in the morning and cooling in the afternoon which is a perfect condition for a complaint to surface.

Most customers describe the odor as a musky, dirty, locker room smell. The problem is similar to an odor that is blown out of a car air conditioner when the AC has not been used for a while.

It is very important to properly identify the problem before any action can be taken, since many odor problems are incorrectly labeled as a dirty sock problem. Eliminate dirty drain pans holding water, drain lines connected to plumbing system without adequate traps or dry traps, return air leaks in ductwork or chases, or dead animals in ductwork or near the living space. If the odor is present ALL the time, especially during heat, the problem is NOT a dirty sock syndrome complaint. Dirty sock complaints only smell when the indoor coil gets cool and the bacteria releases its odor into the air stream.

The Dirty Sock Syndrome plagues 0.5 to 2 percent of heat pumps in the southern states, with Texas being on the lower side of the percentage. The syndrome is not brand specific, with all manufacturers acknowledging complaints. The problem itself is sporadic and limited to isolated households and is somehow related to the living style or products in the home. This can be proven as Trane and other manufacturers have documented changing out systems with new product and the complaint returns. After removing a ‘stinky’ unit from a complaint house, the unit can be cleaned and installed elsewhere without complaint surfacing. Changing the brand of equipment is met with a similar lack of success. In one instance a complaining customer underwent a divorce and when one of them moved out of the home, the problem went away.

Much effort and expense has been given by the industry to research and solve this syndrome, and Trane alone admits to spending tens of thousands of dollars in their effort. In an effort to determine what in these homes could create the complaints, Trane has taken numerous air samples looking for a common denominator with no successful results.

Once the problem has been properly identified, action can then be taken to resolve or reduce the complaint, starting with a thorough cleaning of the evaporator coil with a non-acid coil cleaner. Cleaning will bring the system back to normal and will usually prevent a complaint for the rest of the heating season. Some systems cleaned early in the season or those having more of a problem may have repeated problems during the same season, especially if the weather conditions force a system back and forth from heating to cooling. The majority of complaints are resolved with a thorough cleaning.

If the coil cleaning does not resolve the complaint to a satisfactory level, the next suggested action would be to clean the coil again and apply a coating of Alathene II, a special spray designed to continuously protect coils from fouling caused by airborne contaminates. If seasonal cleanings or the application of Alathene II does not resolve the complaint, as a last resort, your coil may need to be replaced.

Dirty Sock Syndrome complaints can be quite emotional and are generally aimed at the equipment manufacturer. Hopefully this information will educate our customers to the real cause of the problem: Airborne Contaminants that are circulated into the heating and air conditioning system via the return air duct system.

ULTRAVATION™ ULTRAMAX

Great news from Ultravation™ Ultramax Professional Indoor Air Quality Products.

Ultravation™ UltraMAX uses the natural power of ultraviolet light to control airborne allergens and microorganisms — bacteria, viruses and mold growth on HVAC interior surfaces.

Natural UV light from the sun keeps airborne microorganisms under control outdoors. UltraMAX improves the air in your entire home by doing the same thing indoors. . . inside your HVAC system! And UltraMAX also destroys mold and mildew on interior HVAC surfaces for a cleaner running, more efficient HVAC system. Since UltraMAX installs in your HVAC system, it’s always completely out of the way and operates silently!

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website.

Trane Climatuff® Compressor Crankshaft

A Dual Purpose Crankshaft

Good lubrication is essential to long compressor life and is one of the keys to its reliability. The Climatuff® compressor's crankshaft doubles as a positive, non-directional, centrifugal oil pump. It provides a constant oil supply to the bearing surfaces when the pump is running. In addition, it helps vaporize liquid refrigerant and cools the motor bearing.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website.

Systems Extreme Environmental Test Laboratory (SEET)

Trane's Reliability Testing Facility
In the SEET lab, Trane technicians will put a heat pump system through 2,688 hours of continuous testing, watching for signs of weakness or unusual wear. Why do they only test heat pumps? Because if a Climatuff® compressor can withstand SEET as a heat pump, it will easily handle any stress it may encounter as an air conditioner. During the 16-week testing period, heat pump systems undergo two-week cycles of torture, eight consecutive times, allowing engineers to measure and manage a system's quality and performance. Only the strong survive.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

Trane Climatuff® Dual Reciprocating Compressor

More very interesting information from Trane.

Dual Reciprocating Compressor Operation

5-ton model has a 2.5- and 5-ton compressors. It is like having two systems in one. The 2.5-ton is the 1st stage compressor and it operates at 50% capacity and runs independently. The 5-ton is the second stage compressor and it operates at 100% capacity and runs independently.

How reciprocating compression works.

On the downstroke of the piston, when pressure in the cylinder is less than suction pressure, the suction valve is pushed off its seat allowing refrigerant into the cylinder. The gas enters efficiently in a cylindrical pattern around the circumference of the valve.

On the upstoke, the suction valve closes preventing refrigerant from leaving the cylinder. When cylinder pressure exceeds discharge pressure, the large round discharge valve lifts completely off its seat allowing gas to efficiently exit the cylinder. If there is liquid present, flow dynamics resulting from tapered surfaces and valve proximity will allow the liquid to be purged from the cylinder without damaging the valves. Besides being gas flow efficient, Trane's valving is engineered to tolerate some liquid slugging.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

TRANE ALUMATUFF™ all-aluminum Comfort™ coils

Here is some information from Trane.

Trane's all-aluminum evaporator coils (pictured on the left after 500 hours salt spray) are constructed with aluminum tubes, return beds, and tube sheets. They will resist corrosion attacks from all typical sources.

Copper tube and galvanized steel (pictured on the right after 500 hours salt spray).

You be the judge!

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

HEAT PUMP CONTACTOR

WHAT DOES THIS CONTACTOR DO?

The contactor's purpose is to send 230 Volts to the Air Conditioning Condenser or Heat Pump compressor, crankcase heater and out door fan motor.

24 Volts of power from your thermostat is applied to the (2) side terminals of the contactor (if it is a 24 volt system, see coil voltages below)(all residential systems use 24 volt coils) assuming your thermostat is calling for cooling in the case of an Air Conditioner. In the case of a Heat Pump 24 volt power is applied to these side terminals on Heat Or Cooling.

WHEN SHOULD THE CONTACTOR BE CHANGED?

Since the contactor is always arching from 240 volts being applied across the contacts, it doesn't take too many years before the contacts get burnt and pitted. This pitting doesn't allow a full 240 volts of power from getting to the compressor and fan motor. This is known as "Voltage Drop". This Voltage Drop results in HEAT which then leads to burnt wires and possibly burnt motors and compressors.

The other reason is because through the years of operation the plastic part that the contacts slide in, wear to the point that the contactor can stick closed which can lead to frozen evaporator coils and burnt out compressors. If you think your outdoor unit is still running even though the indoor fan has stopped, suspect a sticking contactor! Change it before you ruin a $1,000.00 or more expensive compressor!

When we are servicing your system and the service technician tells you the contactor is burnt or pitted or shows you a burnt or pitted contactor, have it changed out to keep from having future problems. Also, while we are there, it will save you another service call.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

THERMOSTAT FAN CONTROL SETTING

The optimal setting on your thermostat for the air handling fan would be to set it on the "AUTO" position. If you hear your air handling fan running all the time, make sure you have set the fan on "AUTO" on your thermostat.

AUTO" on the fan switch on your thermostat is the normal switch position for the fan control. Setting the fan control to "AUTO" will allow the fan to turn on when the air conditioning system (or heating system) are ready to blow cool (or warm) air into the building, and to turn off automatically when cooling or heating are not needed.

"ON" or "MAN" on the fan switch: there are reasons to leave the fan in the ON position on a heating or cooling system, but we do not recommend that you do this without first asking for advice from your heating and service technician.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning, Inc. has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine, Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service. Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems). For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics, click here to visit our website

Upgrading? Look For These Top Air Conditioning Features

With the summer heat bearing down on Florida, you might be wondering how well your cooling system will hold up for the duration of the season. In fact, you may be looking at new systems right now.



If you’re thinking about shopping, or you’re actually taking the initial steps to replace your system, the first thing you’ll want to consider is the efficiency rating of each unit. An air conditioner’s cooling efficiency is measured in terms of its seasonal energy efficiency ratio. While many older units have SEER ratings as low as 6, all units manufactured today must have a SEER of at least 13. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the equipment. Also look for the Energy Star label.

You will also want to consider various energy efficiency and home comfort features. Among the features you should consider are:

•A dual-stage compressor: A cooling system with a dual-stage compressor runs on high when it’s very hot and at a lower speed when the weather’s milder. On most days, it runs at low speed for a longer time. This means a more even temperature and better humidity control, as well as operation that’s quieter and more energy efficient.

•Thermal expansion valve: This device controls the superheat in the compressor. Used in place of a capillary tube or other fixed orifice device, it helps to ensure that the evaporator coil operates at maximum efficiency, regardless of the outside temperature. It also helps to ensure compressor dependability.

•A fan-only switch: You can use this for nighttime ventilation when the temperature’s moderate.

•A filter light check: This will remind you that it’s time to change the filter.

Unfortunately, the best system in the world won’t give you the economy and comfort you want if it’s not sized and installed correctly. Make sure your contractor uses Manual J to size your system. One that’s too big will cycle on and off too frequently, failing to remove sufficient humidity from the air and detracting from your comfort. One that’s too small just won’t do the job.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided reliable air conditioning sales and service to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine ,Northeast Florida and St. Johns air conditioning service . Contact us for expert advice when you’re upgrading.


Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

WINTER MAINTENANCE REMINDER

It's that time again!! Have your system maintained for the winter. Finally, the weather is getting a littler cooler and you should remember to call to have your system checked for the winter months.

Change Your UV Bulb



Why change my UV lamps when they still light up?

Ultraviolet lamps are comprised of two electrode filaments (the spring looking wire at each end), a glass and quartz combination vacuum tube, several inert gases and approximately 3 mg of mercury (Hg).

These specialty lamps are designed to provide light energy in the germicidal spectrum of 254 nm (nanometer = one billionth of a meter). As they operate, they slowly loose their germicidal effectiveness, about 15% per year. If the UV system is installed for the sole purpose of protecting HVAC equipment such as coils and blowers—surfaces that stay consistently in the range of the UV lamps, then the UV lamps will be effective for about 18,000 hours or two years.

If the primary operation of the UV system is to aid in the reduction of indoor air contamination, then the recommended lamp replacement interval should be one year. This will ensure needed higher energy levels are maintained to aid in the reduction of moving (airborne) microorganisms circulating through the HVAC system.

UV lamps should then be exchanged after a maximum two year installation period for several reasons, including:

The disinfection effectiveness will be significantly compromised and the system will not be able to generate UV-C light as specified. Note that even though a visible blue glow can seen though the system viewport, the glow is not UV light (which is invisible) but actually a by-product of the operation.

If you decide to change your UV Bulb yourself, remember to:

Always protect eyes from ultraviolet light.
NEVER look at UV lamps in operation.
Unplug or disconnect power before re-lamping or servicing.
Severe eye damage or temporary blinding may occur.

FALL/WINTER MAINTENANCE

It just doesn't seem like fall or winter in Florida yet, but the cooler weather will be upon us before we know it. Once again, just like spring/summer, it is time to have your heat pump, air conditioner, or furnace serviced for the winter. Give us a call and let us tell you about our fall/winter maintenance programs.

HEAT STRIPS

The emergency back up heat strip in your heat pump system comes on in the colder weather when the heat pump cannot keep up with the setting of your temperature on the thermostat, when your heat pump goes into the defrost mode, when you set your temperature 5+ degrees higher than your room temperature, or when you set your thermostat to the emergency heat strip mode. The first time you use your heat strips after the summer months, you will probably smell something odd. Throughout the summer months, dust, hair, lint, etc., can collect on your heat strips and the first time you use them, it will burn it off and you will smell it. Remember, with the cooler weather coming up, give us a call and have your system serviced and checked out for the cooler weather.

Enclosing A Condensing Unit

Some homeowners think it is a good idea to build a structure around their outdoor condensing unit. NOT! The condensing unit needs to breath and if there is an enclosure around it, it cannot circulate the air properly. Enclosing your outdoor condensing unit can cause problems with the function of your system and it can also cause higher electric bills.

CLOSING OFF VENTS

To save on cooling costs, is it recommended to shut the air-conditioner vents in rooms that are unused and closed?

If designed correctly, the air delivery system in your house has been sized according to the flow requirements of the unit and each room. Closing off vents can create a pressure imbalance within the system that can reduce the effectiveness of your cooling system. By closing off registers, the increased pressure within the ducts can also cause increased duct leakage, especially in a duct system that is not properly sealed. Give us a call if you think you have duct leakage.

CONDENSATE DRAIN

Residential central air conditioning systems that need to cool and dehumidify use a condenser, evaporator coil, and refrigerant piping to operate. The means of moving the air might differ (furnace, air handler, etc.), but the principal is the same for all split systems. The term "split" refers to the physical separation of the condenser and the evaporator. This is in contrast to a window or wall air conditioner in which they are "packaged" together. The refrigerant is compressed and run through a series of tubes to remove as much heat as possible, then piped to an evaporator coil as a warm liquid. Expansion of the compressed liquid causes it to cool, and as the air passes over the coil, heat is extracted. The cool liquid becomes a cool gas as it gathers heat from the air, and is drawn back to the compressor to start the procedure again. As the air passes over the evaporator coil and cools, moisture in the air condenses and drains off as condensate. Thus, water out your drain line. Make sure you see water coming from your main drain. If it is coming out of your emergency drain, then you know your main drain is clogged and should call us.

CONDENSER NOISE

Why does my Air Conditioner make so much noise when starting?

Sometime it is perfectly normal for air conditioning condensing units to make noise above normal when starting. This is due to factors similar to a car engine starting; the oil must travel before it starts to lubricate the moving parts. The other factor is that the compressor is not under pressure for the first few seconds of operating and this tends to make it louder in operation. This condition should only last for a few seconds and no more than say 10 seconds. If it is suddenly making more noise than usual or it lasts beyond a few seconds this is more than likely a symptom of another issue. You should then give us a call and schedule service.

MITSUBISHI DUCTLESS HEAT PUMPS

Do you have an enclosed area in your home that does not have central heating and cooling, but you would like it to? Well visit our site and review the information on Mitsubishi Ductless Heat Pumps. After you review the information, give our office a call and talk to the experts.

HEAT PUMPS

One of the biggest advantages of a heat pump over a standard heating ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) unit is that there's no need to install separate systems to heat and cool your home. Heat pumps also work extremely efficiently, because they simply transfer heat, rather than burn fuel to create it. This makes them a little more green than a gas-burning furnace. And they don't just heat and cool buildings. If you've ever enjoyed a hot tub or heated swimming pool, then you probably have a heat pump to thank. They work best in moderate climates, so if you don't experience extreme heat and cold in your neck of the woods, then using a heat pump instead of a furnace and air conditioner could help you save a little money each month.

INFORMATION FROM ENERGYSTAR

Earning the ENERGY STAR means products meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the US Environmental Protection Agency. By choosing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment and taking steps to optimize its performance, you can enhance the comfort of your home while saving energy. Saving energy helps you save money on utility bills and protect the environment by reducing greenhouse gas emissions in the fight against climate change.

Electric air-source heat pumps, often used in moderate climates, use the difference between outdoor air temperatures and indoor air temperatures to cool and heat your home.

ENERGY STAR qualified heat pumps:
have higher seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) and energy efficiency ratio (EER) ratings, as well as a higher heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) than standard models, making them about 9% percent more efficient than standard new models and 20% more efficient then what you may have in your home.

Ask us about Energy Star qualified heat pump equipment.

HEAT PUMP TIPS

Set thermostat at one temperature. Constant adjusting can cause higher utility costs.
If using your thermostat as a setback type, limit the setbacks to twice a day such as when you are at work and when you are sleeping.
Only setback the thermostat 6% of desired temperature( approximately five degrees).
In cooling, try not to set the thermostat below 70 degrees. Besides higher utility costs, this can cause the indoor coil to freeze and cause condensation in the house.
Check air filters monthly or bi-weekly. Clean or replace as needed.
Keep shrubs pruned back at least 18 inches around all sides of the heat pump.
We suggest having your heat pump inspected and serviced by a service technician AT LEAST once a year

Is It Time For A/C Coil Cleaning?

Coil cleaning should be an essential part of your air conditioner’s annual maintenance. Without it, the coils could create a significant — and negative — effect on the comfort level in your home, as well as your energy bills.
Air conditioners generally have a coil in the outdoor condensing unit and another coil in the indoor evaporator unit. The indoor coil is often called the “cool” coil. This coil absorbs heat from the air as the A/C moves warm air from inside your home into the system. The condenser coil is generally know as the “warm” coil, because at this point in the cooling process, the coil releases the heat outside.

It is cause for concern whenever either coil becomes dirty, as dirt buildup is the No. 1 deterrent to performance and efficiency. Dirty coils can lead to a host of problems, including:

•Higher energy consumption: Dirt buildup greatly hinders the coils’ ability to transfer heat, both absorbing it or releasing it. As a result, the system will use more energy to transfer heat. In fact, it’s estimated that a dirty coil can consume almost 40 percent more energy just to get the job done.

•Lower cooling capacity: When the coils are not able to transfer heat as they are designed to, the A/C’s capacity to cool also drops, along with efficiency. Therefore, your home won’t feel as cool as it did when the system was operating at its peak. You can expect to see as much as a 30 percent drop in capacity.

•Early system failure: All that dirt on the coils creates a domino effect of damage to internal components, because of the increased pressure and higher temperatures it causes.


If it’s time for coil cleaning, contact Action Heating and Air Conditioning. Our team of certified experts is happy to help you keep your air conditioner in peak condition. We have served homeowners in Northeast Florida since 1982.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about your sealing ducts ,Indoor Comfort and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

How to Keep Your Air Conditioning Costs Down

Is the cost to operate your central air becoming a burden? When run every day, your A/C could set you back an average of about $200 each month. Air conditioning costs homeowners, and the nation in general, a significant amount of energy. In fact, 5% of all energy produced in the U.S. is used for air conditioning. Of course, staying cool in a warm climate is not just a luxury for many people- it’s a necessity. So, keeping our A/C units turned off in order to save money is not a good option here in sunny Florida.

A lot of our customers ask us how they can lower their air conditioning costs. The fact is, running your air conditioning does not have to break the budget. You just have to make sure to operate your unit efficiently so that you get the best performance for your energy dollars. In our experience, the way to do that is to follow some easy steps. Here’s how to save 20-50% on your costs:

1. Regular maintenance- This is something you can do yourself or have a professional take care of for you. When you keep your A/C well-maintained, you’re increasing its efficiency by up to 30%. Our inspections generally include:

– Filters- Dirty filters are a major cause of inefficient operation. You can save 5-15% in energy usage just by cleaning your filters regularly.

– Fins- Coil fins can become bent over time, and this keeps air from flowing properly. Your technician can straighten then out during scheduled maintenance, or you can use a fin comb to do it yourself.

– Ducts- Gaps in your ductwork lower efficiency by allowing up to 20% of conditioned air to leak out. Check your ductwork and seal up any leaks so your A/C doesn’t have to work harder than necessary.

– Drains- Drains keep water and humidity from building up in your system and your home. Clogged drains allow moisture to accumulate, so be sure to check your drains and clean them out at least twice a year.

– Coils- Your unit’s condensor and evaporator coils absorb heat from your home, so they need to remain free from dirt and debris. Check both the indoor and outdoor units and clean them regularly.

2. Proper operation- Maintenance is one way to save money on air conditioning costs. It’s also important to properly operate your system. Don’t leave doors or windows open while running your A/C, and make sure the thermostat is set correctly. If your A/C unit can’t sense the temperature of the air coming into the coils, it won’t run efficiently.

3. Get an energy-efficient unit- Whether you’re installing a new A/C system or replacing on old one, an energy-efficient model will save you money. For instance, Energy Star units not only offer savings of up to $200 per year, they also may qualify you for tax credits of up to $1,500.

Air conditioning costs can be managed, simply by keeping your system in good repair and making wise choices about how you operate your system. Next time, we’ll talk about ventilating to keep your home and family cool when the temperature soars.

Questions about air filters or how to install one in your particular HVAC system? Contact Action Air for expert advice for Northeast Florida homeowners. Please visit our website to learn more or just pick up the phone.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about your sealing ducts ,Indoor Comfort and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

FILTER CHANGING

Filter changing is a very important part of keeping your air conditioning/heat pump system running properly. If you buy a filter that states that it is a 3-month filter, don't be fooled. The length of time in between changing your filter depends on many factors: pets, children, traffic in-and-out of the home, outdoor environment, etc. Be sure to check your filter monthly (in some instances every 2 weeks). Your filter may not require changing (if you can hold your filter up to the light & see through it, then it probably will not need changing; but if it is partially dirty, make sure to check it the next week). Never, remove your filter and just turn it over. The dirt that is on the filter will be drawn up into your evaporator coil, causing it to eventually clog. Keeping your filter clean can help your electric consumption, prolong the life of your system, prevent compressor failure, along with other component failures. Make it a point to check your filter regularly.

UNDERWRITERS LABATORIES

UL is an independent, not-for-profit product-safety testing and certification organization. UL has developed more than 800 Standards for Safety. The Standards for Safety are essential to helping ensure public safety and confidence, reduce costs, improve quality and market products and services.

Manufacturers of HVAC/R equipment can take advantage of UL's portfolio of performance/efficiency services and safety conformity assessment solutions. UL also offers one-stop safety, efficiency, and sanitation certification services for manufacturers of refrigeration equipment.

Distributors of HVAC/R equipment also depend on UL for safety. We at Action Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc., depend on UL ratings.

VARIABLE SPEED AIR HANDLER

Variable speed air handlers are not only quieter than conventional units, they are more efficient. Variable speed air handlers operate continuously at a wide range of speeds, whereas conventional single speed air handlers operate at only one speed and cycle on and off throughout the day. Variable speed air handlers provide more uniform heating and cooling because they constantly circulate the air in your home. This constant circulation also greatly reduces humidity levels during air conditioning season. Because the blower motor operates at lower speeds, it's quieter and consumes less energy

Efficient

Variable speed air handlers are more efficient. Since variable speed units typically operate at lower speeds than constant speed air handlers, they use less energy, and lower your heating and cooling bills. In fact, a typical variable speed unit uses 80 percent less electricity to run the fan than a similar constant speed blower.

Quiet

Variable speed air handlers are quieter than constant speed units for two reasons: First, variable speed units don't cycle off and on continually, as with constant speed air handlers; this reducing both duct and fan noise. Second, the lower fan speeds of the variable speed units are inherently quieter than the higher speeds used in constant speed air handlers

Uniform Temperatures

Variable speed air handlers provide more uniform heating and cooling. Variable speed units continually circulate the air in your home. This prevents uncomfortable hot spots and cold spots.

Remove Humidity

When used for air conditioning, variable speed air handlers are much more efficient at removing humidity from the air. This greatly increases comfort in summer months.

Cleaner Air

Variable speed systems can produce cleaner air. Because variable speed units constantly circulate and filter the air, the air in your home is cleaner.

R-22 REFRIGERANT

Information update on R-22 Refrigerant: R-22 Price May Be Volatile

Since January of 2003, the price of R-22 in the U.S. market has increased by more than 500%, and the supply reductions created by ongoing regulations are likely to continue to influence R-22 price in the future.

If you have an R-22 system and are having problems, you really should analyze the cost of repairs vs. replacement.

EPA INFORMATION

EPA approves three hydrocarbon alternatives.

The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has added isobutane (R600a), propane (R290) and the R-441A blend (of ethane, propane, butane and isobutane) as acceptable hydrocarbon alternatives in household and small commercial refrigerators and freezers.
The newly-approved refrigerants can be used to replace ozone-depleting chlorofluorocarbon (CFC)-12 and hydrochlorofluorocarbon (HCFC)-22 in household refrigerators, freezers, combination refrigerator-freezers, and commercial stand-alone units.

HOW HEAT PUMPS ACHIEVE ENERGY SAVINGS and CO2 EMMISSIONS REDUCTION: an introduction

The following information was obtained from IEA Heat Pump Centre and we found it very interesting and wanted to share it with our readers.

This section gives a brief introduction to heat pumps. Based on six basic facts about heat supply the value of heat pumps is discussed. It is argued that heat pumps are very energy efficient, and therefore environmentally benign.

An efficient technology

Heat pumps offer the most energy-efficient way to provide heating and cooling in many applications, as they can use renewable heat sources in our surroundings. Even at temperatures we consider to be cold, air, ground and water contain useful heat that's continuously replenished by the sun. By applying a little more energy, a heat pump can raise the temperature of this heat energy to the level needed. Similarly, heat pumps can also use waste heat sources, such as from industrial processes, cooling equipment or ventilation air extracted from buildings. A typical electrical heat pump will just need 100 kWh of power to turn 200 kWh of freely available environmental or waste heat into 300 kWh of useful heat.

Six basic facts about heating

Through this unique ability, heat pumps can radically improve the energy efficiency and environmental value of any heating system that is driven by primary energy resources such as fuel or power. The following six facts should be considered when any heat supply system is designed:

1. direct combustion to generate heat is never the most efficient use of fuel;
2. heat pumps are more efficient because they use renewable energy in the form of low-temperature heat;
3. if the fuel used by conventional boilers were redirected to supply power for electric heat pumps, about 35-50% less fuel would be needed, resulting in 35-50% less emissions;
4. around 50% savings are made when electric heat pumps are driven by CHP (combined heat and power or cogeneration) systems;
5. whether fossil fuels, nuclear energy, or renewable power is used to generate electricity, electric heat pumps make far better use of these resources than do resistance heaters;
6. the fuel consumption, and consequently the emissions rate, of an absorption or gas-engine heat pump is about 35-50% less than that of a conventional boiler.

A large and worldwide potential

If it is further considered that heat pumps can meet space heating, hot water heating, and cooling needs in all types of buildings, as well as many industrial heating requirements, it is clear that heat pumps have a large and worldwide potential.

Of the global CO2 emissions that amounted to 22 billion metric tons in 1997, heating in building causes 30% and industrial activities cause 35%. The potential CO2 emissions reduction with heat pumps is calculated as follows:

 6.6 billion metric tons of CO2 come from heating buildings (30% of total emissions).
 1.0 billion metric tons can be saved by residential and commercial heat pumps, assuming that they can provide 30% of the heating for buildings, with an emission reduction of 50%.
 A minimum of 0.2 billion metric tons can be saved by industrial heat pumps (estimation based on a study by Annex 21).

The total CO2 reduction potential of 1.2 billion metric tons about 6% of the global emissions! This is one of the largest that a single technology can offer, and this technology is already available in the marketplace. And with higher efficiencies in power plants as well as for the heat pump itself, the future global emissions saving potential is even 16%.

In some regions of the world, heat pumps already play an important role in energy systems. But if this technology is to achieve more widespread use, a decisive effort is needed to stimulate heat pump markets and to further optimize the technology. It is encouraging that a number of governments and utilities are strongly supporting heat pumps. In all cases it is important to ensure that both heat pump applications and policies are based on a careful assessment of the facts, drawn from as wide an experience base as possible. The IEA Heat Pump Centre sees it as one of its key roles to ensure that these facts are available to a wide audience, including policy makers, utilities, market parties and heat pump users.

WE ARE SPOILED -- GET A GENERATOR

Imagine this. All is quiet in the house, kids are asleep, you are winding down by reading a book, and oops, the light flickers and then everything is dark. POWER OUTAGE!!! Don’t be caught without power. It can be very costly, unhealthy, and aggravating. Consider purchasing a whole-house generator.

HOW TO CHOOSE A GENERATOR

First let's go over the different types that are out there. Home generators for power outages can be portable or stationary (standby). They run on a variety of fuels, such as gasoline, diesel, natural gas (NG), and liquefied petroleum gas (LPG). Each type has its pros and cons. Portable gas models are relatively cheap.

For example, you can buy a 4000W set for under $300. However, such devices have short run time: you would need to refill their tank several times a day if you run them continuously at rated load. In addition to this, they are not suitable as a long-term power backup since gas pumps may not work during a wide spread blackout. For a long term emergency consider standby sets. They can provide continuous power for the home because they are hooked up to an external fuel source, such as NG line. Some portable devices can also be fueled from an external source and can therefore provide extended run time too. The main differences between them and stationary models are in their connection and activation. A portable device has to be rolled out from the storage, filled with fuel or hooked up to a fuel line, manually started, and connected to your loads. A fixed standby generator by contrast is already connected to both the house wiring and the fuel source. Therefore it can start immediately either by a push of a button or automatically. Automatic systems have an auto transfer switch. It can sense a power outage, isolate your electrical wiring or designated emergency circuits from the grid, and start the genset. When grid voltage is restored, such a system will connect you back to the utility lines and will turn itself off. You don't even have to be at home to activate it. Note that the typical transfer time of an automatic system is 10-30 seconds. Therefore, if you run important computer applications, you may still need a UPS. It can prevent data loss during the transfer time. Note that even though permanently installed natural gas powered gensets can provide practically unlimited run time, you still need to periodically shut them down to change the motor oil. With some engines you will need to do it as often as every 50-100 hours of operation. This is another reason why a UPS will be useful.

In addition to the convenience of an auto starting option and practically infinite run time, permanently connected standby systems offer power levels higher than portables. Their rating ranges anywhere from 5 kilowatt up into hundreds of kW. All this makes them the best whole house generators for power outages, especially for the long-lasting ones. Of course, they are more expensive than portables and require professional installation, which are their main disadvantages. Note however, such systems do increase the value of the house.

So, what to look for when you are choosing a generator for the home? My advice is: aside from wattage and cost, the main things to consider are the duration of time you may need emergency power, fuel availability, and convenience of use.

SELECTING THE FUEL

If you go for a stationary type, your choice of fuel should be determined primarily by the source you already use for the home's heating or by the fuels available in your area. Note that most residential generators are bi-fuel and can run on both natural gas and LPG (casually called propane). You will normally need a simple field adjustment to convert from one fuel to the other. If like most homes your house is already supplied with gas, or if LPG is readily available in your area, a bi-fuel NG/propane genset is your logical choice. See our detailed standby genset review for ratings and characteristics of various systems. Among major brands, the Generac's Guardian® and Briggs & Stratton IntelliGen models probably have the lowest cost per kW. In my view they are the best buys. You just need to pick the right size. Kohler and GE are a bit more expensive, but they offer a longer warranty. As a rule of thumb, an average house with up to 5-ton central air conditioner typically needs a system rated between 15kW and 17kW.

Give us a call to talk to the experts.

Stay On Top Of Moisture And Help Avoid Mold Problems

Found in abundance in the Arctic, the Antarctic and everywhere in between, mold and mold spores are virtually impossible to avoid. Mold especially flourishes in warm, humid climates like ours in Northeast Florida.

Though air cleaners and UV lights can reduce the number of mold spores in your home, they can never be eliminated completely. Keeping your home dry can go a long way toward inhibiting interior mold growth.
Mold can grow on nearly any surface as long as water is present. Aside from producing stains and damaging wood, drywall, carpet and other furnishings, mold spores can cause detrimental health effects ranging from mild to life-threatening.

Cleanup and removal of mold can be difficult and expensive. It is far easier to avoid mold problems in the first place. Some tips for keeping your home dry and mold-free:


•Clean up spills or leaks immediately. Mold growth can begin within 24 hours.

•Ensure good ventilation, especially in bathrooms, attics and basements.

•Use fans or windows to improve ventilation while cooking or showering.

•Do not overwater houseplants or leave damp clothing or other materials sitting around.

•Cover pipes and other surfaces prone to condensation with waterproof material.

•Make sure appliance drip pans and drain routes are clean and functioning.

•Use air conditioning and/or a dehumidifier to keep your home’s humidity below 55 percent.

Air conditioners remove some water from the air as it is treated, but in the high-humidity climate of Northeast Florida a dehumidifier will be considerably more effective at reducing moisture. Dehumidifiers are available in small, portable units to address trouble spots. But a whole-house dehumidifier will optimize the moisture level throughout your entire home.

When it comes to mold, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. At Action Heating and Air Conditioning we are always happy to answer any questions you may have, and our professionals are standing by ready to help you take control of your home’s humidity levels. Contact us if we can help.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

Have You Been Practicing Good Heat Pump Maintenance?

If you have a heat pump, you know that it’s a highly efficient way to cool and heat your home. But even the most efficient cooling and heating system isn’t efficient if it’s not properly maintained. Work with your HVAC technician to keep your system in tip-top shape. Some routine heat pump maintenance tasks you can do yourself. Other tasks are best left to your experienced technician.

What you can do

•Change the filter regularly. A dirty filter can severely restrict your system’s efficiency and force your heat pump to work harder than it should. Ask your technician how often you should change the filter, or consult your owner’s manual. When you’re shopping for a filter, look for one in the mid-MERV range. A filter with a mid-range minimum efficiency reporting value should remove sufficient particulate matter to keep your unit running efficiently.
•Whenever the outdoor coils look dirty, clean them. Also clean the fan occasionally, making sure you turn off the power first.
•Check the condensate pan, drain and trap, and clean as needed.
•Clear away vegetation or other obstructions that are near your outdoor unit. This will keep airflow optimal.
•Clean the registers in your home. Straighten any bent fans.
•Leave your thermostat setting alone. If you avoid the temptation to frequently change the setting you will allow your unit to operate most efficiently.

What your technician should do:

Have your heat pump professionally inspected and serviced at least once a year. Your technician should:

•Thoroughly inspect the components, checking for obstructions and dirt.
•Find and seal any leakage.
•Check for refrigerant leaks and correct the charge if necessary.
•Measure airflow.
•Lubricate the motor.
•Tighten and clean the terminals.
•Check the controls and the thermostat.

At Action Heating and Air Conditioning, we understand the benefits of heat pump maintenance. We can help you maintain your system, and if you’re shopping for a new unit, we can help you with that, as well. We serve homeowners in Northeast Florida. Contact us and let us help you with all of your HVAC system needs.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

COMMON ABBREVATIONS OF AIR CONDITIONING

Common abbrevations
Below common abbreviations related to heat pumping technology are listed. The list is not complete and it will continuously be updated.

AHU An air handling unit, or air handler
COP Coefficient Of Performance
CFC Chlorofluorocarbon
DHW Domestic Heat Water
DX Direct Expansion
EER Energy Efficiency Ratio
EES Earth Energy System
GCHP Ground Coupled Heat Pump
GHP Geothermal Heat Pump
GSHP Ground Source Heat Pump
GWHP Ground Water Heat Pump
GWP Global Warming Potential
HCFC Hydrochlorofluorocarbon
HDH Cumulative Heating Degree Hours
HFC Hydrofluorocarbon
HSPF Heating Seasonal Performance Factor
HVAC Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning
ODP Ozone Depletion Potential
SEER Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio
SPF Seasonal Performance Factor

GEOTHERMAL

Geothermal Heat Pumps
Geothermal heat pumps (sometimes referred to as GeoExchange, earth-coupled, ground-source, or water-source heat pumps) have been in use since the late 1940s. Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use the constant temperature of the earth as the exchange medium instead of the outside air temperature. This allows the system to reach fairly high efficiencies (300%-600%) on the coldest of winter nights, compared to 175%-250% for air-source heat pumps on cool days.
While many parts of the country experience seasonal temperature extremes—from scorching heat in the summer to sub-zero cold in the winter—a few feet below the earth's surface the ground remains at a relatively constant temperature. Depending on latitude, ground temperatures range from 45°F (7°C) to 75°F (21°C). Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. The GHP takes advantage of this by exchanging heat with the earth through a ground heat exchanger.
As with any heat pump, geothermal and water-source heat pumps are able to heat, cool, and, if so equipped, supply the house with hot water. Some models of geothermal systems are available with two-speed compressors and variable fans for more comfort and energy savings. Relative to air-source heat pumps, they are quieter, last longer, need little maintenance, and do not depend on the temperature of the outside air.
A dual-source heat pump combines an air-source heat pump with a geothermal heat pump. These appliances combine the best of both systems. Dual-source heat pumps have higher efficiency ratings than air-source units, but are not as efficient as geothermal units. The main advantage of dual-source systems is that they cost much less to install than a single geothermal unit, and work almost as well.
Even though the installation price of a geothermal system can be several times that of an air-source system of the same heating and cooling capacity, the additional costs are returned to you in energy savings in 5–10 years. System life is estimated at 25 years for the inside components and 50+ years for the ground loop. There are approximately 50,000 geothermal heat pumps installed in the United States each year.
Benefits of Geothermal Heat Pump Systems
The biggest benefit of GHPs is that they use 25%–50% less electricity than conventional heating or cooling systems. This translates into a GHP using one unit of electricity to move three units of heat from the earth. According to the EPA, geothermal heat pumps can reduce energy consumption—and corresponding emissions—up to 44% compared to air-source heat pumps and up to 72% compared to electric resistance heating with standard air-conditioning equipment. GHPs also improve humidity control by maintaining about 50% relative indoor humidity, making GHPs very effective in humid areas.
Geothermal heat pump systems allow for design flexibility and can be installed in both new and retrofit situations. Because the hardware requires less space than that needed by conventional HVAC systems, the equipment rooms can be greatly scaled down in size, freeing space for productive use. GHP systems also provide excellent "zone" space conditioning, allowing different parts of your home to be heated or cooled to different temperatures.
Because GHP systems have relatively few moving parts, and because those parts are sheltered inside a building, they are durable and highly reliable. The underground piping often carries warranties of 25–50 years, and the heat pumps often last 20 years or more. Since they usually have no outdoor compressors, GHPs are not susceptible to vandalism. On the other hand, the components in the living space are easily accessible, which increases the convenience factor and helps ensure that the upkeep is done on a timely basis.
Because they have no outside condensing units like air conditioners, there's no concern about noise outside the home. A two-speed GHP system is so quiet inside a house that users do not know it is operating: there are no tell-tale blasts of cold or hot air.

MINI DUCTLESS SYSTEMS

WE SELL MITSUBISHI DUCTLESS, MINI-SPLIT SYSTEMS








Ductless, mini-split-system heat pumps (mini splits) make good retrofit add-ons to houses with "non-ducted" heating systems, such as hydronic (hot water heat), radiant panels, and space heaters (wood, kerosene, propane). They can also be a good choice for room additions, where extending or installing distribution ductwork is not feasible.

Like standard air-source heat pumps, mini splits have two main components: an outdoor compressor/condenser, and an indoor air-handling unit. A conduit, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain, links the outdoor and indoor units.

The main advantages of mini splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning or heating and cooling individual rooms. Many models can have as many as four indoor air handling units (for four zones or rooms) connected to one outdoor unit. The number depends on how much heating or cooling is required for the building or each zone (which in turn is affected by how well the building is insulated). Since each of the zones will have its own thermostat, you only need to condition that place when someone is there. This will save energy and money.

Ductless mini-split systems are also often easier to install than other types of space conditioning systems. For example, the hook-up between the outdoor and indoor units generally requires only a three-inch hole through a wall for the conduit. Also, most manufacturers of this type of system can provide a variety of lengths of connecting conduits. If necessary, you can locate the outdoor unit as far away as 50 feet from the indoor evaporator. This makes it possible to cool rooms on the front side of a building house with the compressor in a more advantageous or inconspicuous place on the outside of the building.

Since mini splits have no ducts, they avoid the energy losses associated with ductwork of central forced air systems. Duct losses can account for more than 30% of energy consumption for space conditioning, especially if the ducts are in an unconditioned space such as an attic.

In comparison to other add-on systems, mini splits offer more flexibility in interior design options. The indoor air handlers can be suspended from a ceiling, mounted flush into a drop ceiling, or hung on a wall. Floor-standing models are also available. Most indoor units have profiles of about seven inches deep and usually come with sleek, high tech-looking jackets. Many also offer a remote control to make it easier to turn the system on and off when it's positioned high on a wall or suspended from a ceiling.
Split-systems can also help to keep your home safer since there is only a small hole in the wall. Through-the-wall and window mounted room air-conditioners can provide an easy entrance for intruders.

Give us a call and talk to our expert on the Mitsubishi systems.

Ease the Cost Of Summer Vacation By Saving Energy Dollars While You’re Away

Taking a summer vacation is a good way to relax and leave behind the hassles of everyday life, but it can be an expensive proposition, as well. Your travel expenses, vacation rentals and dinners at the restaurant can add up. One way to ease the cost of summer vacation is to make sure your home isn’t wasting energy while you’re gone. Tend to the following before you take off.

• Air conditioner: Leave your air conditioner set at 80 to 82 degrees. This way it will run less often but still provide some dehumidification. If you have a programmable thermostat, set it to kick on shortly before you return home. But if your pets are staying behind — with someone checking on them regularly — turn up your thermostat only a few degrees.

• Lights: Turning off the lights before you leave for vacation is a no-brainer, but some homeowners like to leave the lights on for security purposes. If you prefer to leave some lights on, select just a few and hook them up to a timer or motion sensor. That way, the lights will come on only when you need them to, rather than blazing away 24/7.

• Freezer and refrigerator: Get rid of highly perishable items such as meat and dairy products before you leave, and put your refrigerator and freezer at the highest temperature setting while you’re gone. If you plan to be out of the house for a month or more, completely empty your fridge and unplug it. Leave the door propped open so you don’t come home to mold and mildew.

• Water heater: Shut your water heater off at the fuse box or circuit breaker panel before you leave to avoid heating water unnecessarily while you’re away.

• Swimming pool: Set your pool pump so that it runs just a few hours each day instead of around the clock.

• Household electronics: Devices like stereos, computers and televisions draw power even when they’re turned off, so eliminate this needless expense by unplugging them before you leave.

To learn more about energy savings during summer vacation, contact Action Heating and Air Conditioning. We’ve been serving St.Johns ,Clay and all of Northeast Florida since 1982.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics click Here to visit our website

SYSTEM OPERATION

While heat pumps and air conditioners require the use of some different components in your heating and cooling system, they operate on the same basic principles.
Heat pumps and central air conditioners are "split systems," which means that there is an outdoor unit (condenser) and an indoor unit (coil). The job of the heat pump or air conditioner is to transport heat from one "station" to the other. The "vehicle" your system uses to carry the heat is called refrigerant.

In air conditioning operation, the compressor in your outdoor unit will change the gaseous refrigerant into a high temperature, high pressure gas. As that gas flows through the outdoor coil it will lose heat and condense into a high temperature, high pressure liquid. The liquid refrigerant travels through copper tubing into the evaporator coil located in your fan coil unit or attached to your furnace. The liquid refrigerant is then allowed to expand.

This sudden expansion turns the refrigerant into a low temperature, low pressure gas. The gas then absorbs heat from the air circulating in the duct work, leaving it full of cooler air to be distributed throughout your house. Meanwhile, the low temperature, low pressure refrigerant gas returns to the compressor to begin the cycle all over again.

While it’s keeping you cool, your air conditioner or heat pump also works as an effective dehumidifier. As warm air passes over the indoor evaporator coil, it can no longer hold as much moisture as it carried at its higher temperatures. The extra moisture condenses on the outside of the coils and is carried away through a drain. The process is similar to what happens when moisture condenses on the outside of a glass of ice water on a hot, humid day.

A heat pump basically reverses that process in cold weather. It takes heat out of the outside air (or the ground, if you have a ground-source heat pump) and moves it inside, where it is transferred from the evaporator coil to the air circulating through your home.

Where does a heat pump get the heat to warm your home when it’s cold outside? Well, to a heat pump, cold is a relative term. Even though 35 F air may feel cold to humans, it actually contains a great deal of heat. The temperature at which air no longer has any heat is well below -200 F. A heat pump’s heat exchanger can squeeze heat out of cold air, then transfer that heat into your home with the help of a fan coil or a furnace, which circulates the warm air through your ducts.

Heat pumps are often installed with back-up electric resistance heat or a furnace to handle heating requirements when more heat is needed than the heat pump can efficiently extract from the air.

Give us a call at (904) 819-0234 for more information.

GOOD SENSE

"Along with prohibiting the production of ozone-depleting refrigerants, the Clean Air Act also mandates the use of common sense in handling refrigerants. By containing and using refrigerants responsibly -- that is, by recovering, recycling, and reclaiming, and by reducing leaks -- their ozone depletion and global warming consequences are minimized. The Clean Air Act outlines specific refrigerant containment and management practices for HVAC manufacturers, distributors, dealers and technicians. Properly installed home comfort systems rarely develop refrigerant leaks, and with proper servicing, a system using R-22, R-410A or another refrigerant will minimize its impact on the environment. While EPA does not mandate repairing or replacing small systems because of leaks, system leaks can not only harm the environment, but also result in increased maintenance costs. One important thing a homeowner can do for the environment, regardless of the refrigerant used, is to select a reputable dealer that employs service technicians who are EPA-certified to handle refrigerants. Technicians often call this certification"Section 608 certification," referring to the part of the Clean Air Act that requires minimizing releases of ozone-depleting chemicals from HVAC equipment." — As quoted from the EPA. Call us at Action Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc., we have EPA certified technicians.

Home Air Conditioner Maintenance Is A Must-Have Service: What Your Contractor Should Do

Keeping your air conditioner running reliably and efficiently requires regular maintenance and attention. Without expert maintenance, your cooling system is more likely to break down when the stresses of summer push it beyond its ability to function



Regular preventive maintenance keeps your system running as it should and allows an expert to find and fix small problems before they get worse.

Preventive inspection and maintenance lets a trained HVAC professional evaluate the condition of your system and make changes, adjustments and repairs that will sustain the unit’s performance. If any parts of your air conditioner are wearing out sooner than they should, your technician can locate the source of the wear and stop it. Preventive maintenance also pays off financially: Regular tune-ups can keep an air conditioner operating at up to 95 percent efficiency, even after several seasons.


Your technician will inspect your system and complete maintenance tasks. Those tasks may include::


•Checking and filling the refrigerant and checking for leaks
•Inspecting, cleaning and tightening electrical connections
•Inspecting and sealing ducts to prevent air and energy leaks
•Lubricating moving parts, including fans and motors
•Inspecting belts for tightness and condition
•Inspecting drain pans and condensate drains
•Checking and cleaning condenser and evaporator coils
•Checking and calibrating the thermostat
•Testing overall system operation and making necessary adjustments
You can do some maintenance tasks yourself, such as:

•Cleaning the outdoor compressor and removing accumulated grass, leaves, sticks and other material from vents
•Trimming trees, grass, bushes and other vegetation away from the unit to provide clearance for airflow
•Cleaning indoor vents and registers and clearing any blockages
•Changing filters (Check monthly, and change if needed; otherwise, change every three months.)

By doing some of the minor tasks yourself, you’ll free up your technician’s time to focus on technical issues and repairs.

For 30 years, Action Heating and Air Conditioning has provided top-notch air conditioning sales, maintenance and repair to residential and commercial customers in St.Augustine and Northeast Florida. Contact us for more information on maintenance or to schedule a professional air conditioner tune-up that will keep your system working reliably throughout the summer.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).For more information about Indoor Air Quality and other HVAC topics,click here to visit our website

LIQUID BLEACH & DRAIN LINES

Many homeowners think it is a good idea to pour liquid bleach down their air conditioning drain line. If your drain line is clogged, it is not recommended that your pour bleach in the drain line. Bleach will not clear the clog in the line; but the bleach could back up in the clogged drain and damage carpet, flooring, and other items in close proximity to the clogged drain line. Make sure you have your drain line cleared before you pour liquid bleach in it.