Simple No-Cost and Low-Cost Tips to Save Energy This Summer

No-Cost and Low-Cost Tips to Save Energy This Summer

Here you'll find strategies to help you save energy during the spring and summer when the weather is warm and you are trying to keep your home cool. Some of the tips below are free and can be used on a daily basis to increase your savings; others are simple and inexpensive actions you can take to ensure maximum savings through the spring and summer.

If you haven't already, conduct an energy assessment to find out where you can save the most, and consider making a larger investment for long-term energy savings.

Also check out no-cost and low-cost tips to save energy during the winter.

Use Your Windows to Gain Cool Air and Keep Out Heat

If you live in a climate where it cools off at night, turn off your cooling system and open your windows while sleeping. When you wake in the morning, shut the windows and blinds to capture the cool air.


Install window coverings to prevent heat gain through your windows.
•Find out about window treatments and coverings that can improve energy efficiency.

Operate Your Thermostat Efficiently

Set your thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The smaller the difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be.

Keep your house warmer than normal when you are away, and lower the thermostat setting to 78°F (26°C) only when you are at home and need cooling. A programmable thermostat can make it easy to set back your temperature.

•Find out how to operate your thermostat for maximum energy savings.
•Also see ENERGY STAR's June 5, 2008, podcast for video instructions on operating your programmable thermostat.

Avoid setting your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and unnecessary expense.

Use Fans and Ventilation Strategies to Cool Your Home

If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting about 4°F with no reduction in comfort.

•Learn more about using a ceiling fan to increase cooling efficiency.
•Find ENERGY STAR ceiling fans.

Turn off ceiling fans when you leave the room. Remember that fans cool people, not rooms, by creating a wind chill effect.

When you shower or take a bath, use the bathroom fan to remove the heat and humidity from your home. Your laundry room might also benefit from spot ventilation. Make sure bathroom and kitchen fans are vented to the outside (not just to the attic).
•Find ENERGY STAR ventilating fans.

Keep Your Cooling System Running Efficiently

Schedule regular maintenance for your cooling equipment.
•Learn about operating and maintaining your air conditioner, evaporative cooler, or heat pump.
•Find guidelines on hiring a professional service for air conditioner maintenance.
Avoid placing lamps or TV sets near your room air-conditioning thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.

•Learn additional tips for operating a room air conditioner efficiently.
Vacuum registers regularly to remove any dust buildup. Ensure that furniture and other objects are not blocking the air flow through your registers.

Don't Heat Your Home with Appliances and Lighting

On hot days, avoid using the oven; cook on the stove, use a microwave oven, or grill outside.

Install efficient lighting that runs cooler. Only about 10%–15% of the electricity that incandescent lights consume results in light—the rest is turned into heat.

•Learn more about your options for efficient lighting.
•Find out when to turn off your lights.
•Purchase ENERGY STAR lighting products.
Take advantage of daylight instead of artificial lighting, but avoid direct sunlight.
•Learn more about strategies for efficient daylighting.
Wash only full loads of dishes and clothes. Consider air drying both dishes and clothing.
•Learn more about efficient dishwashing and laundry.
Take short showers instead of baths.
•Learn more ways to reduce your hot water use.
Minimize activities that generate a lot of heat, such as running a computer, burning open flames, running a dishwasher, and using hot devices such as curling irons or hair dryers. Even stereos and televisions will add some heat to your home.
•Learn more about avoiding heat buildup in your home

Keep Hot Air from Leaking Into Your Home

Seal cracks and openings to prevent warm air from leaking into your home.
•Learn more about air sealing new and existing homes.
Add caulk or weatherstripping to seal air leaks around leaky doors and windows.
•Find how to select and apply the appropriate caulk.
•Learn how to select and apply weatherstripping.
•Find out other ways to improve the energy efficiency of your windows.

Lower Your Water Heating Costs

Water heating can account for 14%-25% of the energy consumed in your home.

Turn down the temperature of your water heater to the warm setting (120°F). You'll not only save energy, you'll avoid scalding your hands.
•Find other strategies for energy-efficient water heating.

Energy Saving Tips

When You Save Energy, You Save Money





Summer Tips

* Use ceiling fans to increase comfort level. Set your thermostat at 78 degrees or higher. For each degree you lower the temperature form the recommended setting, you can increase your bill up to 4%. GRU has HVAC system rebates available.
* Don't place lamps or TV sets near your air conditioner thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, and causes the air conditioning to run longer than necessary using more energy.
* Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units but not to block the airflow. A unit operating in the shade uses as much as 10% less electricity than the same one operating in the sun.
* Install a programmable thermostat to adjust the temperature automatically and maximize energy savings. When cooling, try programming the thermostat to 82° while you are gone in the daytime and return it to 78° two hours before you get home.

Indoor Humidity - Moisture in the Home

Indoor Humidity - Moisture in the Home

You know when your home's air is too hot or cold. That's because you feel uncomfortable. But the amount of moisture in your home's air also has an impact on the way you feel, plus it can have a major effect on your health.

Too Much Moisture

High moisture levels can make your home feel stuffy and create a breeding ground for mold, mildew, dust mites and bacteria. Recent studies have shown that mold can cause or worsen asthma, as well as hay fever and other allergies*.

Not Enough Moisture

Dry air makes furniture shrink, warp and crack. Plus, it causes skin irritation and respiratory problems,** not to mention annoying static shocks.



Optimal Humidity Range for Ideal Comfort and Indoor Air Quality

National studies and indoor air quality experts, indicate, that, for optimal comfort and health, your home's relative humidity levels should range between 35 and 50 percent.


For optimal comfort and health, studies show that moisture levels should be in the range of 35% to 50%. You can track your home's humidity with a hygrometer, available at hardware and home improvement stores.


Other Ways to Reduce Home HumidityReducing sources of moisture can reduce your need for dehumidification.

Improving the drainage around the foundation of your home may result in decreased humidity in your basement. Some ways to improve drainage are:
Extend downspouts from your gutters away from the foundation of your home
Keep gutters and downspouts clear and open
Ensure that the soil slopes away from your foundation, to avoid pooling of water around your home.

Avoid over-watering of foundation plantings
Ensure that clothes dryers are properly vented to the outdoors. If you do not use a clothes dryer, dry your clothes outdoors as opposed to hanging them inside for drying.
Use vent fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove humidity at the source.
Repair leaking outdoor faucets. Not only will this help reduce humidity, but it will also save you money on your water bills!
If your home uses central air conditioning, consider installing an A/C vent in the humid space in your home and take advantage of the dehumidifying capabilities of your A/C system. This will also help with air circulation, improving airflow between humid parts of your home and drier parts.

About Your A/C

About Your A/C
Central Air Conditioning
Central air conditioning helps keep your home cool and reduces humidity levels. By transferring heat from air located inside your home to the outside, conditioned and cooled air is left to be re-circulated. Using electricity as its power source, the compressor inside an air conditioning unit pumps coolant, or refrigerant, back and forth to gather heat and moisture from indoors. Warm air from inside is blown over the cooling coil, which is connected to the compressor, and then pumped back into your home.



Frequently Asked Questions

Can I troubleshoot before calling a dealer?

The answer is, "Yes." Here are some simple procedures you can perform before going to the expense of a service call:

■Check disconnect switches. (indoor and outdoor if you have a split system). Make sure that circuit breakers are ON or that fuses have not blown.
■Check for sufficient airflow. Make sure air filters are clean and that supply-air and return-air grilles are open and unobstructed.
■Check the settings on your thermostat. If you want cooling, make sure the temperature control selector is set below room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is on the COOL or AUTO position. If you want heat, make sure the temperature control selector is set above room temperature and the SYSTEM switch is at HEAT or AUTO. The FAN switch should be set at ON for continuous blower operation or AUTO if you want the blower to function only while the unit is operating.
Make sure your circuit breakers are in the ON position.
Make sure your filters are clean.

How long will my system last?

Maintenance and service play a key role in the lifecycle of an air conditioning system. If all recommended maintenance and service actions are taken, it is believed that an air conditioner should last about 10 years.

What is Freon R-22?

R-22 is the common name for hydro-chlorofluorocarbon (HCFC). R-22 has been used as a refrigerant by HVAC manufacturers for over 40 years, but studies in the past decade have shown that HCFCs contain chlorine, an ozone-depleting agent. For this reason, the United States Clean Air Act has set a target date for January 1, 2010, on which HVAC manufacturers must cease the production of products that use R-22.

What is R-410A?

R-410A is the common name for an emerging hydro-fluorocarbon (HFC) that is being used as a refrigerant in the HVAC industry. R-410A is more environmentally friendly than R-22 and is being seen as the most likely replacement for R-22 by HVAC manufacturers. At the beginning of 2010, the use of alternate refrigerant will be required in HVAC manufacturing.

Is there any advantage to setting my thermostat fan to "ON" so the fan runs constantly?
Yes, there are a couple. The first is that you get constant filtering of the air in your home. The second is that because the air is moving, you have a more even temperature throughout.

What is a S.E.E.R.(Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio)
rating and what does it mean to you?

S.E.E.R. stands for Seasonal Energy ,Efficiency Ratio, the standard measurement of air conditioning efficiency established by the U.S. Department of Energy. What does this mean to you? Higher S.E.E.R. ratings translate into greater energy efficiency which means lower electricity bills. The most important thing to remember is the higher the S.E.E.R. rating, the more money you save.

Why a higher efficiency rating (SEER) saves energy:
If your current air conditioner is more than 10 years old, it could be operating at lower than 8.00 S.E.E.R. If the annual cooling bill of an 8.00 S.E.E.R. system in a particular area is $1,000, it would cost only $615 for a 13.00 S.E.E.R. system to operate at the same capacity in the same area. This is an annual savings of 38%.

How often should I recharge my air conditioner with new freon?

A properly functioning air conditioner does not consume refrigerant (freon), so under ideal conditions it would never need changing or filling. A low freon level indicates a leak which should be repaired before adding more.

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Geothermal Heat Pumps

Two 36-ton geothermal heat pumps used at the College of Southern Idaho.
The geothermal heat pump, also known as the ground source heat pump, is a highly efficient renewable energy technology that is gaining wide acceptance for both residential and commercial buildings. Geothermal heat pumps are used for space heating and cooling, as well as water heating. Its great advantage is that it works by concentrating naturally existing heat, rather than by producing heat through combustion of fossil fuels.

The technology relies on the fact that the Earth (beneath the surface) remains at a relatively constant temperature throughout the year, warmer than the air above it during the winter and cooler in the summer, very much like a cave. The geothermal heat pump takes advantage of this by transferring heat stored in the Earth or in ground water into a building during the winter, and transferring it out of the building and back into the ground during the summer. The ground, in other words, acts as a heat source in winter and a heat sink in summer.

The system includes three principal components:

•Geothermal earth connection subsystem
•Geothermal heat pump subsystem
•Geothermal heat distribution subsystem.

Earth Connection
Using the Earth as a heat source/sink, a series of pipes, commonly called a "loop," is buried in the ground near the building to be conditioned. The loop can be buried either vertically or horizontally. It circulates a fluid (water, or a mixture of water and antifreeze) that absorbs heat from, or relinquishes heat to, the surrounding soil, depending on whether the ambient air is colder or warmer than the soil.

Heat Pump Subsystem

For heating, a geothermal heat pump removes the heat from the fluid in the Earth connection, concentrates it, and then transfers it to the building. For cooling, the process is reversed.

Heat Distribution Subsystem

Conventional ductwork is generally used to distribute heated or cooled air from the geothermal heat pump throughout the building.

Residential Hot Water

In addition to space conditioning, geothermal heat pumps can be used to provide domestic hot water when the system is operating. Many residential systems are now equipped with desuperheaters that transfer excess heat from the geothermal heat pump's compressor to the house's hot water tank. A desuperheater provides no hot water during the spring and fall when the geothermal heat pump system is not operating; however, because the geothermal heat pump is so much more efficient than other means of water heating, manufacturers are beginning to offer "full demand" systems that use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household's hot water needs. These units cost-effectively provide hot water as quickly as any competing system.

Additional Information

For more specifics on geothermal heat pump systems, including types, benefits and selection and installation, visit these pages on the DOE Consumer's Guide Web site:

•Types of Geothermal Heat Pump Systems
•Benefits of Geothermal Heat Pump Systems
•Selecting and Installing a Geothermal Heat Pump System

To lean more about geothermal heat pumps, visit the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association, where you can search for local IGSHPA Accredited Installers, Trainers, and Certified Designers using their Business Directory. Information is also available from the Geothermal Heat Pump Consortium, which can help you can find a knowledgeable contractor in your area by using their GeoExchange Industry Directory.
While primarily intended for the energy managers of Federal facilities, DOE's Federal Energy Management Program does have information on purchasing and installing geothermal heat pumps that would be of help to commercial building owners or contractors on their heat pump Web page.

Indoor Air Quality Solutions

Allergies

60,000,000 people in the United States are affected by allergies, and mold is one of the 5 most common allergens. The dark, cool and moist surfaces that typically exist in HVAC systems are very favorable places for mold growth. The spores released from the growth are distributed throughout the structure. Applying UV light in these vulnerable areas can make a huge difference in the spore counts in the air. In regions where the air is typically drier and mold growth is less of a problem, UV applied in the recirculating airstream passing through an HVAC system can make a significant reduction in the mold spore counts in indoor air. By reducing the density of mold spores, the indoor air quality is enhanced and allergy symptoms reduced.

Bacteria and Viruses

Fresh outside air is healthy to breathe in part because natural UV from the sun controls the level of airborne microorganisms.A UV Light brings UV indoors to help control microorganisms in indoor air. With a UV system installed in your HVAC system, the numbers of airborne bacteria and viruses that cause colds and other illnesses will be reduced as air is circulated through the system. With most people spending as much as 90% of their time indoors, optimizing indoor air quality becomes increasingly important. Today's advanced building techniques are another factor to consider when evaluating indoor air quality. To increase heating and cooling efficiency, and to add to indoor comfort, homes and commercial buildings are more airtight than ever. While efficiency and comfort goals may be achieved, an unintended effect is that with less outdoor air "leaking" into the indoor space, airborne organisms and other contaminants can accumulate. The HVAC system now has an increased role in maintaining indoor air quality -- adding UV disinfection along with filtration and other enhancements helps it fulfill that role.

Mold

That smell when the air conditioner turns on -- especially after it has been off for a while. What is it? Chances are it's MOLD, and those mold spores spread around, landing everywhere in the house. Or if mold is growing in a damp place elsewhere in the house, the air conditioner helps distribute the spores as the air is recirculated. UV can play an important -- if not vital -- role in controlling home damaging mold. As insurance companies raise rates and even exclude mold damage from their coverage, UV can be a big help -- consult your HVAC contractor.

MERV 11 Filtration

Most MERV 11 high capacity Media filters feature of thirty-two square feet of MERV 11 filtration folded into a five-inch compact pleated unit—it’s better than 99% efficient on pollen—and many other irritants such as dust mite allergen. The EPA considers MERV 11 premium performance for residential applications.

Odor Reduction

Photronic’s ReFresh odor reduction process, operates in much the same way as an automotive catalytic converter. The air passing through the refresh system comes in contact with a UV energized grid that is coated with an exclusive formulation containing titanium dioxide. The grid reacts with hundreds of odors (caused by VOCs) and breaks them down into harmless—and odorless—components.

Saving Energy

A UV system uses about the same amount of electricity as a standard light bulb. Yet it can help your HVAC system increase its efficiency, so you may use less power overall. When mold becomes established on cooling elements, it begins to insulate it from the passing air. This makes the heat transfer from the air to the elements more difficult. When this happens the HVAC system begins to run a little longer and then cycles more often to accomplish the same temperature setting. This obviously uses more energy and in addition, increases wear and tear on the system. Of course we recommend quality filtration to keep the elements as well as the UV lamps free of dust, then the UV will keep the mold away, and help to optimize efficiency.

Ductless, Mini-Split Heat Pumps

Ductless, Mini-Split Heat Pumps
Ductless, mini-split-system heat pumps (mini splits) make good retrofit add-ons to houses with "non-ducted" heating systems, such as hydronic (hot water heat), radiant panels, and space heaters (wood, kerosene, propane). They can also be a good choice for room additions, where extending or installing distribution ductwork is not feasible.

Like standard air-source heat pumps, mini splits have two main components: an outdoor compressor/condenser, and an indoor air-handling unit. A conduit, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and a condensate drain, links the outdoor and indoor units.

Advantages
The main advantages of mini splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning or heating and cooling individual rooms. Many models can have as many as four indoor air handling units (for four zones or rooms) connected to one outdoor unit. The number depends on how much heating or cooling is required for the building or each zone (which in turn is affected by how well the building is insulated). Since each of the zones will have its own thermostat, you only need to condition that place when someone is there. This will save energy and money.

Ductless mini-split systems are also often easier to install than other types of space conditioning systems. For example, the hook-up between the outdoor and indoor units generally requires only a three-inch hole through a wall for the conduit. Also, most manufacturers of this type of system can provide a variety of lengths of connecting conduits. If necessary, you can locate the outdoor unit as far away as 50 feet from the indoor evaporator. This makes it possible to cool rooms on the front side of a building house with the compressor in a more advantageous or inconspicuous place on the outside of the building.

Since mini splits have no ducts, they avoid the energy losses associated with ductwork of central forced air systems. Duct losses can account for more than 30% of energy consumption for space conditioning, especially if the ducts are in an unconditioned space such as an attic.

In comparison to other add-on systems, mini splits offer more flexibility in interior design options. The indoor air handlers can be suspended from a ceiling, mounted flush into a drop ceiling, or hung on a wall. Floor-standing models are also available. Most indoor units have profiles of about seven inches deep and usually come with sleek, high tech-looking jackets. Many also offer a remote control to make it easier to turn the system on and off when it's positioned high on a wall or suspended from a ceiling.

Split-systems can also help to keep your home safer since there is only a small hole in the wall. Through-the-wall and window mounted room air-conditioners can provide an easy entrance for intruders.

Disadvantages
The primary disadvantage of mini splits is their cost. Such systems cost about $1,500–$2,000 per ton (12,000 Btu per hour) of cooling capacity. This is about 30% more than central systems (not including ductwork) and may cost twice as much as window units of similar capacity.

The installer must also correctly size each indoor unit and judge the best location for its installation. Oversized or incorrectly located air-handlers often result in short-cycling, which wastes energy and does not provide proper temperature or humidity control. Too large a system is also more expensive to buy and operate.

Some people may not like the appearance of the indoor part of the system. While less obtrusive than a window room air conditioner, they seldom have the built-in look of a central system. There must also be a place to drain condensate water near the outdoor unit.

Qualified installers and service people for mini splits may not be easy to find. In addition, most conventional heating and cooling contractors have large investments in tools and training for sheet metal duct systems. They need to use (and charge for) these to earn a return on their investment, so they may not recommend ductless systems except where a ducted system would be difficult for them to install.